Four are east of the Boundary Wall; the rest lie between this and the large bareish gully with a wall at its head.
(1) Easy way down, east of Great Chimney.
(2) Eastern Traverse. 35 feet, Very Difficult.
Start of traverse 6 feet west of easy way down. By hand
traverse from the left, starting on a flat-topped block round
the corner, and reaching the obvious line of holds under the
overhang, by a very awkward move. Continue across Great
Chimney (up great chimney obverse).
(3) Great Chimney. 40 feet. Very difficult.
Climb facing in for 10 feet, then chimney facing
east for 30 feet. Strenuous.
(4) Great Chimney Obverse. 40 feet. Very Difficult.
Climb 10 feet as in the Great Chimney, then fork right up
a hard slab to a good stance and belay.
(5) Obverse Direct. 45 feet. Severe
Straight up layback and flakes at right front corner of
chimney. Then fork right as in G.C.O. follwed by severe
crux, the hard slab.
(6) Boundary Corner. 45 feet. Difficult.
The chimney right of the Boundary Wall with a cave at
the top and a big chockstone. Climb starts on wall facing west.
Good holds for 10 feet to a mantleshelf, then facing right
up slab to a chimney. Either straight up chimney or over the
nose for a good foothold to cave finish. A direct finish is
possible.
(7) Doves Nest Crack. 35 feet. Very Severe.
A green cave climbed by left wall to a thrustful overhang,
where turn awkwardly right about, and back and foot, knee,
etc., up outside the overhang to a ledge. Very strenuous.
(8) Idiots Delight. 40 feet. Severe.
Up a green triangular slab, step right to another triangualr
slab, and follow this to its apex (a nest) where there is a perch
under the hang of a blind chimney. Tragverse left along an
obvious ledge beyond the overhang to Boundary Corner.
Ordinary route: Traverse to left of the Arete, delicate.
Direct Route: Climb up Arete.
(9) The Fox's Hole. 40 feet. Moderate.
Easy two-pitch climb from blunt pyramid down the slope
and to the right of the Idiots Delight. Climb pyramids and
over the nose (or through the Fox's Hole). 12 feet back to
slab and chimney.
(10) Hounds Corner. 40 feet. Easy.
Easy chimney 6 feet right of Fox's Hole. Leads to grass
ledge and second pitch of foxes hole.
Nose Chimney Direct. 45 feet. Difficult.
(The Nose and the Snout are the large wedge walls jutting
out east and west of the incut Central Gully. The first has a
severe and Pharoah face when seen from the west or north-west).
Start climbing left of undercut, make an ascending traverse
into the hanging chimney, finish on right at top of chimney.
(12) Easy Traverse. 55 feet. Difficult.
Round the Nose. Start up left wall of Central Gully, traverse
to the bridge, and ascend chimney.
(13) Central Gully East. 35 feet. Difficult.
Climb up left wall to ledge, then straight up crack to finish.
(14) Central Gully West. 45 feet. Severe.
Start up right hand of gully with a strenuous pull up to
ledge, whence with one foot in crack on right and on the other
on the rough slab, a precarious layback keeps ones feet on the
slab till the upper holds are reached.
(15) Main Wall. 50 feet. Very difficult.
Round the corner from Central Gully. Slab is so worn that
it is nearly severe. Climb starts 10 feet from back
corner and follows a delicate left hadn traverse to a ledge.
Traverse right to a bigger ledge, and finish up flake chimney.
(16) Main Wall Direct. 40 feet. Difficult.
Start further right in corner and reach flake crack thereon
by a series of mantleshelves. Traverse below or across slab
dividing Main Wall from Lichen Chimney.
(17) Lichen Chimney. 40 feet. Moderate.
Low green chimeny to chockstone, over to terrace, whence
back and feet up shallow top chimney (face right).
(18) Broken Blocks Staircase. 30 feet. Moderate.
Start on slabs right of Lichen Chimney. A vague climb
with mantleshelf at bottom and a choice of three chimneys
from the terrace.
(19) Dirty Flue. 30 feet. Easy
Small V-chimney left of a small arete which ends on the
terrace across the last two climbs.
(20) Sweethope Crack. 40 feet. Severe.
Start from the blocks left of the easily recognisable foot of
Squeezy Bill, and by stiff finger work reach a small ledge
at the foot of a narrow V, which is climbed to the top, with
fingers only in the crack, a precarious hold.
(21) Squeezy Bill. 35 feet. Difficult.
Start right of an easy stairway, then over left to reach the
terrace, from which leads a narrow, smooth, vertical chimney,
which can be climbed facing either way. thread belay on
right wall overf top of chimney.
(22) The Rakes' Progress. 70 feet. Very difficult.
The sharp, thin outstanding ridge marking off the west
section of Great Wanney. All attempts to conquer the top
via the arete have so far failed because of the tiny holds
on the outleaning left face, by which alone the top flutes
can be reached.
Climb starts on west face, 6 feet from arete edge. Traverse to arete, then up for 25 feet, when a traverse to the right brings a good ledge and belay. Leader continues round the Nose (delicate) to foot of easy chimney, straight up chimney to good belay at back.
(23) Jacob's Ladder. 50 feet. Very difficult.
Starts 3 feet right of Rakes Progress. Traverse right and
up a terrace (belay same as Rakes Progress). Thence by
bridging up chimney to finish over top slab to good hold.
(24) End Chimney. 20 feet. Moderate
The last curving crack on this section of the crag. Starts
high up and is short, but strenuous.
(25) Girdle Traverse. About 250 feet. Severe.
Start up main wall to the foot of the Flake Crack; traverse to
Lichen Chimney (belay). Follow broken rocks across to
a small arete and descend Dirty Flue nearly to ground level
where the arete edge is passed by an awkward swing, and the
foot fo a green chimney is reached. (Thread belay). Cross
overhung cave, and work down to a horizontal crack for hand
traverse to the foot of Sweethope Crack. Thence step across
to the terrace at the top of the first pitch of Squeezy Bill,
where there is a good stance. Descend first pitch of Squeezy
Bill, but facing right, back to the scratched slab of
Squeezy Bill, and hand traverse round a small edge into the V-groove.
Next to the Rakes' Progress, where follow this across the Nose
(or descend 3 feet down Jacob's Ladder and ascend shelving
slab to green ledge). Follow easy ledge to the end chimney
and ascend.
The west main crag is distinguished by position, by height and by the large overhangs in the middle. It lies between the steep bare gully and a less steep heathery gully on the west. There is an ash tree on the white wall at the end (west).
(26) Ravens Nest. 50 feet. Very Difficult.
An exposed face route on good holds leads to the foot of
a green triangular slab, walling a shallow chimney under a
big overhanging block, which rests on another on top of
the west wall. The finish is through this cave under the roof,
and ends in a constricted cave crawl. A very severe hand-traverse
to right or left gives a direct finish.
(27) Dirty Chimney. 35 feet. Difficult.
Short, square chimney with and cave at foot of top pitch of
West Chimney. Finish left up blocks, or traverse to West Chimney.
(28) West Chimney. 40 feet. Difficult.
Unmistakable deep chimney near west end of crag, with
cave at foot and a deep chockstone. Climb left (right side
is loose) and finish up vertical chimney on right side.
An oblong outcrop with a very big triangular overhang like a porch, perhaps 25 feet, and a long flat bench or seat 3 feet - 5 feet high.
'A'Crack. 25 feet. Severe.
Crack starts at left hand end on bench. Holds very small.
'A' Traverse. 20 feet. Severe problem.
Tricky start at bench gets one into position. Then traverse
left to right under roof or porch.
'A' Chimney. 15 feet. Moderate.
At right of 'A' traverse. Climbed by rib or wedge-face.
Finish up wall.
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