On NOTCHED BUTTRESS. The first buttress east of Central Buttress.
(37) Titus. 50 feet. Very difficult.
Start on the right hand side of the buttress in a corner.
Climb the broken groove as far as a clean-cut stance and belay.
Ascned another 6 feet and traverse left to a zig-zag crack.
Climb this to the top of the Crag.
(38) Helix. 50 feet. Severe.
Start just to the left of the toe of the buttress. Climb up
a crack to a short rock gangway which leads to the foot of a
lay back. Climb this to a rock ledge. (Belay 10 feet higher).
Travers right over a slab to the corner and up a semi detached
pillar. Junction with Titus.
(39) Julia. 50 feet. Very difficult.
This is the eaier groove in the corner of Helix and a
subsidiary buttress. Climb crack to a stance and belay on the Helix.
Climb the right hand wall to the top.
(40) East Central Chimney. 60 feet. Very difficult.
This chimney lies ont he first buttress to the right of the Twin Trees.
Climb the rib and crack into the chimney, which
narrows and leads to a sloping stance below the final crack.
Belay. Climb this crack to the top.
SMOOTH BASTION. The first buttress east of the Twin Trees. No known routes. 15 yards east of this, the next prominent buttress has a small tree growing at its foot. This is BATTERED BUTTRESS.
(41) Battered Buttress. 50 feet. Severe.
Climb the narrow crack behind the tree to a ledge on the
left. Belay. Ascend a sloping ledge into a chockstoned groove
on the right. Surmount the chockstone and move up to the
right onto the easy ridge leading to the top.
Finally, on the first buttress to the right of Ivy Tower there are two climbs.
(42) Hoozits Crack. 35 feet. Severe.
In the right hand side of the buttress there is a long crack.
The first 15 feet overhangs and is avoided by climbing the
open chimney on the right until a traverse can be made into
the crack. Continue up the crack to the top of the buttress.
(43) Poker Chimney. 40 feet. Very difficult.
The deep chimney on the left side of the buttress narrows
to a crack at the top. Climb the chimney
and crack to the top of the Crag.
(44) Ivy Tower. 45 feet. Very difficult.
Start to the left of the foot of the tower. Climb to the
Ivy roots, traverse right into the gully, climb the side of the tower
to the blocks at the top. Belay. Descend to or step across the
gap onto the wall behind. Traverse a few feet up to the left on to a
grass ledge. Climb the wall ahead in 10 feet to the
top of the Crag.
| Main Web Site | Contents | Crag Lough index | Next