(32) Grad's Groove. 60 feet. Very severe
The most westerly groove on the front of the buttress.
(1) 25 feet. Ascend the clean cut groove on very small holds to a ledge and belay.
(2) 35 feet. Continue up the groove and finish up a short awkward crack on to the top of the Crag (part of the Girdle Traverse)
The first pitch may be avoided by traversing horizontally in from the right. This reduces the standard to "Very difficult".
Three large parallel cracks 10 feet to the left of Grad's Groove are known as the Organ Pipes. Only the central one has been climber to-date.
(33) Central Organ Pipe. 80 Feet. Severe.
Climb the chimney to a sentry box. Belay. Continue up the
crack to a small stance but good belay on the left. From
here keep on up the crack to the top of the Crag.
(34) Great Chimney. 80 feet. Severe.
Starts in a corner on the left of an impossible wall and up
to the right from the lowest point of the buttress.
(1) 20 feet. Climb in the corner to a ledge and belay.
(2) 50 feet. Continue into and up the chimney to the chockstone at the top, normally surmounted on the outside. Rock platform and belay.
(35) Main Wall. 100 feet. Severe.
Start at the foot of the wall at the lowest point of the
whole buttress.
(1) 35 feet. Climb the wall on it's right side to a small clean-cut stance ont he edge of the wall. Belay.
(2) 25 feet. Broken groove to a stance. Thread belay deep in the crack.
(3) 30 feet. Continue up the groove and finish up a steep narrow chimney on to a rock platform. Junction with Great chimney. Belay.
(4) 10 feet. A wall to the top of the Crag.
(36) The Girdle Traverse. 175 feet. Very severe.
Rubbers. Start at the foot of the groove on the left side of Main
Wall.
(1) 15 feet. Climb to an indefinite stance and thread belay.
(2) 20 feet. Traverse right onto the front of the wall, descend a little and follow two parallel cracks for fingers and toes to the stance at the top oif Main Wall first pitch.
(3) 10 feet. Traverse right into Great Chimney at the top of the first pitch.
(4) 25 feet. Climb Great Chimney until a line of footholds can be seen to cross the 'Impossible' wall on the right. Belay in chimney 6 feet higher.
(5) 25 feet. Traverse across 'Impossibe' wall to a stance in chimney. Thread belay.
(6) 15 feet. Climb chimney to and over a jammed block. Belay on the arete.
(7) 10 feet Descend a crack to the 'Garden Path'. Stance
and flake belay.
N.B.- With a running belay these two pitches can be easily combined.
(8) 20 feet. Traverse earthy ledges of the 'path' to perched block stance and flake belay.
(9) 20 feet. Traverse right under an overhang into Grad's Groove, just below the final awkward crack. Belay.
(10) 15 feet. Finish up Grad's Groove.
| Main Web Site | Contents | Crag Lough index | Next