On DEXTER BUTTRESS - The first buttress east of Cairn.
(22) Dexterity. 65 Feet. Severe.
Starts two yards to the right of the lowest point of the
buttress in a corner. Climb the broken wall to along ledge,
(alternatively this ledge may be reached by a broken groove
on the right). From the right hand end of the ledge, climb
the right side of the wall, then trend left and over blocks to
a platform and belay. Walk right to the footof a short buttress.
Climb twin cracks in 15 feet to the top of the Crag.
(23) Block Chimney. 50 feet. Difficult.
An obvious chimney on the left flank. Climb the chimney
to and under the jammed block. Stance and belay. Traverse
right onto the front of the buttress and ascend the rock
staircase to the top.
(24) Deep Gully. 35 feet. Moderate.
The first 15 feet must be climbed on rock, the finish lies
up grass and soil. Auseful way down.
(25) Centurions Crack. 35 feet. Severe.
On TRAPEZIUM BUTTRESS.- the prominent buttress to the left of
Deep Gully has several routes.
(26) Back Alley. 60 feet. Difficult.
(27) Trapezium. 65 feet. Difficult.
(28) Spuggies Gully. 75 feet. Very difficult.
On BROKEN ASH BUTTRESS
(29) Broken Ash Buttress. 80 feet. Very difficult.
Climb a wall for 12 feet to a small ledge. Belay. Climb chimney to a chockstone
and surmount it. Continue up the wall to the right to a platform. Belay.
Traverse right over an arete and up into a groove. This leads back
left and up past the Broken Ash to the top of the Crag.
The small but prominent buttress lying between Central Buttress
and Broken Ash Buttress has one popular climb on it.
(30) Chimney and Mantleshelf. 50 feet. Difficult.
(31) Castor. 20 feet. Difficult.
<>Above Castor there was a similar pinnacle, Pollux, and the crack
so formed was also climbed. Pollux, however, is now part of the scree
below.
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Starts in the right hand corner of the west face.Climb
this corner until overhanging rock calls for a short traverse
to the left into a narrow chimney. Continue up the chimney
and squeeze through on to a platform. Tree belay. 15 feet,
easy rocks to the top of the Crag.
Start in the same corner and then traverse left to the foot
of a large detached pinnacle (the shape of the flat top of this
block is a trapezium). Climb on to the top of the pinnacle.
Traverse left on to the front and straight up to the platform with
the tree belay.
Variation Starts
(1) 15 feet. Very difficult. Begin directly
below the right hand side of the pinnacle and ascend straight to it's foot.
(2) 20 feet. Severe Begin at the foot of the
tall block lying against the front of the buttress. Climb the block
to its top and step into the gap bahind Trapezium. Junction with ordinary route.
Commences in the large chimney in the front of the buttress.
Climb the chimney to a ledge on the left. Block belay.
Continue up the crack ahead over a chockstone into a chimney
which leads to a ledge ont he right. From here various
routes lead to the tree belay
This adjoins the previous buttress on the east side, On it there is a climb
which starts about five yards to the left of Spuggies Gully
Climb a deep chimney on the left side of a ledge on the right
Block belay. Climb the mantleshelf ahead and continue
up a short chimney to a grass saddle. Belay. Finally, a short
wall with a grassy landing.
Five yards to the east of the chimney, a pinnacle 20 feet
high lies against the Crag. This is Castor, and its top is reached
by climbing the crack formed between it and the main Crag.