(1) Far West Buttress. 20 feet Difficult.
This buttress lies to the right of West Chimney and
affords several small variations.
(2) West Chimney. 25 feet Moderate.
An obvious deep cut chimney with substantial holds leading to
a good stance and block belay.
(3) West Corner. 30 feet Severe.
The climb commences left of the chimney at the toe
of the buttress. Climb the corner first right then left
to the top.
(4) Wall And Crack. 30 feet Difficult.
The conspicious crack to the left of West Corner.
10feet. Climb rib and crack. 5feet. Traverse left. 15 feet. Climb
the wall and move right to a platform at the top
of the crack. Block belay. The crack can be climbed all the way.
This is harder than the usual route.
(5) Fifth Avenue. 30 feet. Difficult.
Starts 10 feet to the left of Wall and Crack. Climb up the
left edge of the wall to the top on good hand and footholds.
(6) Monolith Wall. 45 feet. Very Difficult.
Start 15 yards to the left of 5th Avenue. A smooth wall
with a large block suspended on its right side. Climb up the
broken wall on the left to a ledge. Belay. Traverse right to
the block and climb the corner to the top of the block. Easier climbing
leads to the top of the Crag.
IMPOSSIBLE BUTTRESS. The prominent buttress 5 yards to the left of Monolith Wall
(7) Route 1. 55 Feet Very Severe.
Climb up on good holds to within 6 feet of the top.
Continuation from here is extremely severe and it is
advisable to try it first with a rope from above.
(8) Route 2. 60 feet. Very difficult.
Commence as in Route 1 and after 10 feet or so, branch
left along a ledge leading to a chimney. Climb this and the arete
on its left to the top.
The next buttress stands well out from the main mass and it is easily recognised by the Pinnacle 15 feet high at its foot. It is next to the Appian Way and the last buttress in this group.
(9) Pinnacle Crack. 20 feet. Difficult.
The obvious crack on the right side of the west wall of the buttress.
It is easier towards the top.
(10) Bracket. 45 feet Very Difficult.
Starts at the foot of the north west corner of the buttress,
to the right of the Pinnacle. Climb up the nail scored crack to a
ledge. traverse right into a recess. Continue over a mantleshelf
onto better holds leading to the top of the buttress.
Alternatively, from the top of the crack traverse left and
climb up the north west corner to the top.
(11) The Pinnacle.
Route 1. 15 feet. Very Difficult. Up the outside face with few holds.
Route 2. 10 feet. Very Difficult. Back and foot up the inside.
(12) Pinnacle Face. 35 feet. Very Severe.
The north face of the buttress. Climb into the sentry box from
behind the pinnacle. Thread belay. Then with an
awkward and strenuous movement climb out onot the face
by the aid of a vertical crack. Good holds lead to the top.
Note.- The overhanging crack on the east face of this buttress has been climbed very recently, too late for detailed inclusion into this guide.
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